why you go there ???

People are always asking us why we go to Sicily.  Today was one of those rare days when we had nothing to do...no plans and no destination in mind.  The weather was a bit drippy and we had no great expectations for the day...little did we know...

We started out with a leisurely walk to Ragusa Superiore to find a post office so that Joe could mail two brochures to our friends in Connecticut...what an adventura...We walked up the hill to the local post office, took a number, waited our turn. When our number popped up on the lighted board, Joe explained to the nice lady clerk that he wanted to send these things to the US, but needed an envelope. We even knew the Italian word for envelope (busta).  Well, they don't sell envelopes, but then she raised one finger and said "momento", disappeared for a couple of minutes and returned with a yellow envelope that was a bit too short.  With a folding motion Joe implied it was OK to fold the larger brochure, but no, as she indicated with a scowl, that wasn't happening.  She then took two sheets of plain white paper, folded them around the brochures, and stuck the seams together with blank shipping labels.  Joe wrote our friend's address and our local return address on the bespoke envelope, paid her 5 euros, and it was done.  We were cracking up.  I wish we could have taken photos, but who knows what Sicilian wrath that might have sparked.  We will be totally shocked if they actually make it to Connecticut.


After that experience, we wandered down a side street and came upon a window display of some lovely artwork.  The sign said "private collection", but an older gentleman suddenly opened the door and invited us into his shop.  As it turned out, the store was also his art studio and he had several of his paintings on display.  His name is Antionio Bruno, and he has displayed his contemporary artwork all over the world.  He showed us several paintings, and gave us two of his brochures describing shows he had put on in years past.

Antonio Bruno

admirers in the studio

He spent several minutes speaking to us and explaining that much of his work centered around the ethnic atrocities in Albania during the 90s war in Yugoslavia.  The art was disturbing and beautiful at the same time.

Next, we decided it was time for pranzo...lunch.  We walked up and down the side alleys of Ragusa until we settled upon a small, intimate trattoria called Da Luigi.    Luigi himself greeted us and explained that his wife was on the way (it was only 12:30 pm and early for lunch...).  What a treat we were in for !  When Luigi's wife arrived, she brought us several different bruschette - onion, tomato, and wild nettle on toasted bread.  Joe ordered ravioli with butter and sage, and I had pasta with ricotta and broccoli...amazing !

For the secondi, Joe had sausage and a green called sanapo in oil and garlic - it was much like mustard greens and was delicious.  I had a pork cutlet - lightly breaded and sprinkled with pistachio...wow and wow.

Luigi and his wife

The restaurant was frequented by locals and I can understand why...the food was terrific, and the cost was ridiculously inexpensive...appetizers, bread, pastas, meats, a liter of wine, a bottle of water, coffee and an after lunch drink for 40 euro...no tax, no tip...

We strolled back through the streets, stopping for some of the best gelato we have had on the trip, and thanking the powers that be for our good fortune.

a rectory along the way...

another alley, another church

can't forget to look up !

yet another beautiful church

never know what you'll see in an alleyway !

We got back to our apartment in time for the afternoon siesta and were awaken from sogni d'oro (sweet dreams) by the church bells from across the street.

Why you go there ?  A day like today...that's why !

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