Sunday, March 29, 2015

Another beautiful drive... from Alcañiz to Cuenca, Spain

   Probably the thing we underestimated the most about this great trip is how beautiful the drives would be going from one location to another.  The Parador of Alcañiz had been such a great experience, and although we were looking forward to our next stay in Cuenca, we weren't looking forward to the four hour drive to get there.  Were we ever surprised... the scenery was absolutely stunning, totally unexpected.  The drive took us through wide fertile valleys, along roaring rivers, past colorful rocky mesas, and even over a snow-capped mountain.  A thousand photos wouldn't have been enough, but here are a few...
                                           
                                                    


                                                 




   Cuenca is in the Castille-La Mancha region of Spain, and is as far south as we will go.  The old town, first settled in the eighth century, was built on a narrow defensive ridge overlooking two valleys.  Our apartment is in a house on the edge of a cliff, looking west over the valley that has been created over the centuries by the Júcar river.  Carved into the cliff across the valley are "Los Ojos de la Mora", literally the Eyes of Mulberry, and having some local mysterious and mythical meaning. Our one-bedroom apartment occupies the entire top floor of the house, and includes a very cute and useful roof-top terrace.  Here is the view of "Los Ojos" from our terrace...
   The apartment is very comfortable, and a bit funky.  It has a kitchenette, two large TVs, a jacuzzi tub, and an unusual set of stairs to reach the roof terrace.  The view out the front is across a small plaza to the church of San Pedro.  It is about a five minute walk down the hill to Plaza Mayor, the large public square where there are many cafes, etc.  Here are some photos of the apartment...
                 
                                              
                                        
Really good bed...

Funky stairs to access the roof terrace...
                                                 
View straight out from the terrace...bright sun and 70 degrees...

View south from the terrace...

View north from the terrace...

                                             
The Church of San Pedro from our front window...













 


























   Here are some views of beautiful Cuenca...
             
The Parador of Cuenca...

The arch leading to Plaza Mayor, the large main public square...

Footbridge across the valley, same era as the Eiffel Tower...

"Hanging Houses" of Cuenca...

Hanging Houses...

View of the old town...

Great old doorways...

The main Cuenca Cathedral in Plaza Mayor...

Colorful buildings in Plaza Mayor...


  
    An amazing drive to another amazing ancient town...

    Click on or touch any photo to enlarge...


A final farewell to my castle...

Just before we left the Parador, we decided to take a quick self-guided tour through the Palace of the Knight Commanders attached to the castle.  The chapel was built between 1179 and 1200 and is used today for lectures and performances.

one of my lieges...sworn to render feudal allegiance


Gothic mural paintings from the 1200s















wall paintings in the chapel

the remains of the chapel

all the windows are alabaster...beautiful !


The cloister dates from the 1300s...


view to the outside from the cloister area

lovely Gothic arches

the keys to the cloister doorway...you won't lose these !
The various wall paintings are amazing...they are done in a style called "fresco-secco" using tempera rather than pure fresco technique.  The colors are so vivid...even after all these years !

you can barely make out the image here...see below...

the Archangel Michael

Beauty and the Beast !
The paintings on the arches continue to the ceiling...some depict a primitive calender...

The Knights of Aragon...off to another battle !

the underside of the arch is a calendar depicting seasons of the year
What a place and what a visit to the castle...my lieges have served me well...

Click on or touch any photo to enlarge...

In search of Diet Pepsi... and a haircut.. !

   On our last day in Alcañiz we decided to walk into town for the essentials... Diet Pepsi and a haircut.  It had been several weeks since Mario cut my hair in Taormina, and I was slowly losing control of it.  Diet Pepsi is much more available in Spain than it was in Sicily, where it took both bravado and luck to find it.  We knew it would be available in the market in the center of town, so the more pressing quest was to find a barber shop.  We asked at the Parador for a suggestion and they gave us the general location of two "stylists".  I told Chris I wanted an old Spanish dude to cut my hair... a guy with a 100-year-old chair and a leather strap to hone his razor... not some young señorita fresh out of stylist school. 

   We walked past one "Unisex" place that seemed closed, and then decided it was time to formulate a plan... and the plan was to ask a man on the street for help.  Not just any man... we had requirements... his hair had to look like it was not cut by his mother, and he had to look like he could afford a haircut.  We zeroed in on one gentleman, we stopped him, and in my best bad Spanish, I asked... buenas dias, no hablamos espanol, donde esta barbero?", while tugging on a few wild strands of my rapidly graying and thinning hair. 

   He smiled and replied in Spanish, something to the effect that he was a barber and was on his way to his shop, and to follow him.  We followed him to the "Unisex" place that now was open (it opened at noon), and it turns out he wasn't a barber after all, but was going there for a haircut!  The shop was run by two young women... our leader obviously knew them, and announced that he had brought along another "client" for them.  He sat in one chair and I climbed into the other.  Chris found a seat in the small waiting area and picked up a magazine.  As my "stylist" began wetting and combing my hair, Chris brought over the magazine opened to a picture of Richard Gere, and asked the stylist to make me look like that!

   The girl laughed and said OK!  Fifteen minutes later she was done, and what a fine haircut she gave me.  I don't know if the result had me looking like Richard Gere, but I'll be ready if a stand-in is needed for Pretty Woman. 
                   
   Our leader 's haircut was finished about the same time, we thanked him for his help, paid the twelve euros, and were on our way.  We decided to walk around Alcañiz a little more, just for the exercise, before going to the market for you-know-what.  As we turned a corner, who did we see...? but our fearless leader!  This time he stopped us, he reached into his wallet, and pulled out his card.  Turns out he owns a bar-restaurant in town and asked us to stop by if we could.  No, you really can't make this stuff up.  Unfortunately, we weren't able to stop by his place, but still, what a happy coincidence.  We purchased what seemed like several gallons of Diet Pepsi as I was lugging it up the steep hill to the Parador (why didn't we drive..?), and concluded our outing with yet another story to tell.

   Joe, and his "I need a DP wife"...

Thursday, March 26, 2015

A Queen finds her castle...

   After our string of four "one-night-stands", we are spending three nights at the Parador de Alcañiz, which is in the southern part of the Province of Aragon.  What a treat it has been, staying in this storybook castle.  This hotel is part of a collection of one hundred or so Paradores spread across Spain.  They are situated in old castles, convents, monasteries, etc., and are supported by the Spanish government.  Each one has a restaurant that features local ingredients.  This is the only one we are staying in, but we can see how staying in Paradores while touring Spain would be quite a treat.  Here is a link to the Paradores website...
                                                        http://www.parador.es/en

   Parts of this Parador date to the 12th century, with many later additions and refinements.  It sits high on a hill overlooking the small village of Alcañiz, and offers incredible views over the countryside.  Here are some photos...
                                           

At night...
                                             
The entrance arch...
                                                 

Main entrance...

                                 
The courtyard, with 14th century Gothic tower...

Looking out from the courtyard...
                                         
Lamps to light the Queen's procession...

A cloister...

Sunset view from our room...


   The dining room and bar-cafe are fit for a Queen...


Royal dining room with large fireplace at one end...
                                                   
The bar-cafe is open 'til midnight...























   This area of southern Aragon province remind us of the high plains of the western US.  There are bluffs, mesas, rock outcroppings, etc.  The scenery is spectacular...
Another long and winding road... through a rocky canyon...

Olive trees...




                                                        

Olives and mesas...

 













                                                                                                   
Part of a mountain reservoir...

The soil has amazing natural colors...

                                                          
Spectacular scenery...
                      
 












                                                                                               
Rosemary grows wild...

Alcañiz sign surrounded by wild rosemary...

    Look carefully at this hillside... what do you see... ?


Here's a close-up....


























 
  
   Yes, the Queen has found her castle and realm, and is reigning over it.  Hail the reigning Queen...

   Click on or touch any photo to enlarge...